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November 1, 2003
HERITAGE TURKEYS GROW IN CALIFORNIA FOR THE
FIRST TIME IN YEARS!
Slow Food USA is working with 45 heritage breed farmers in
17 states, including three in the state of California, to
help sustain breeds of turkey such as the Bourbon Red, Narragansett,
Jersey Buff, American Bronze and Blue Slate. Of the 400 million
turkeys consumed each year in the US, all except 10,000 are
one variety: the Broad Breasted White. These birds are overbred
for white breast meat and have lost the ability to run, fly
and breed naturally. Many are unhealthy, never see natural
sunlight and have their beaks shaved off so that they don't
injure one another in their cramped and stressed environments.
In 2003, Slow Food has helped secure 10,000 orders for heritage
turkeys including 2,000 in California. Support for heritage
breeds is crucial not only because maintaining genetic diversity
within any species is crucial to a secure and sustainable
food supply but also because these birds are infinitely better
tasting than their industrial cousins. Their meat is dark,
rich and succulent. Three farmers are pioneering heritage
turkey production in the Golden State: Rick Pitman of Pitman
Farms in Madera (www.marysturkeys.com);
Willie Benedetti of Williebird Farm in Petaluma (www.Williebird.com);
and Sylvia Mavalwalla of S&B Farm in Petaluma (707-763-4793).
Rick Pitman: Started in 1954
by Rick's father Don, Pitman Farms sells birds all over the
western US. Rick notes that "heritage birds are much
more natural as far as their instincts: they are timid and
shy; they get nervous with people; it takes a while to befriend
them. They need to get to know you - in essence they are smarter
then regular birds." While Mary's variety sell for $1.49
per lb, the 1,200 organically fed heritage birds Rick will
raise this year (700 Narragansett and 500 Bourbon Red) sell
for $4 per lb. Rick plans to open a slaughter house in 2004,
which will greatly benefit small farmers around the region.
Rick's heritage birds will be delivered to drop off points
arranged by Slow Food chapters throughout the state for pick
up by Slow Food members a few days before Thanksgiving.
Willie Benedetti: Willie is
raising 200 Bourbon Red turkeys this year to celebrate the
40th anniversary of the farm, which raises 90,000 turkeys
annually for Bay Area consumers and retail outlets like Williams
Sonoma. Willie explains that raising 200 Bourbon Reds is just
as hard as raising 5,000 Broad Breasted Whites. As Willie
says, "heritage birds are a lot more flighty and much
more independent than regular turkeys. I can tell these birds
will want to roost. They are also very pretty birds."
Willie's heritage birds will be picked up at his store in
Santa Rosa by Slow Food members a few days before Thanksgiving.
Sylvia Mavalwalla: Sylvia has
raised livestock for 20 years with husband Bajun. They bought
property in Petaluma in 1979, which features a few head of
cattle, Barbardo sheep, and many kinds of goats including
Boer goats. They raise pigs on mostly milk and bread (making
the meat soft and juicy), a diet that is coincidentally based
on a model developed in Denmark. Grandchildren visit often
and are put to work during weekends and summers. Sylvia, who
is raising 45 free range Narragansetts, will work closely
with Slow Food to sell her turkeys (and heritage geese), which
can be picked up at her farm if pre-ordered.
Slow Food USA's work in 2003 follows two years of efforts
to save heritage breeds. In 2001, less than 5,000 heritage
turkey breeder birds were left in the United States. Working
with the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, Slow Food
USA boarded these breeds onto its Ark of Taste, a project
dedicated to saving foods in danger of extinction. This step
was followed by more than a year's work with hatcheries, farmers,
Slow Food members and convivia. The end result was a doubling
of the heritage turkey population and the American Livestock
Breeds Conservancy upgrading the Bourbon Red breed from Rare
Status to Watch Status on its census counts.
Thanks to grassroots support from Slow Food convivia throughout
California including in Los Angeles, Russian River, Sonoma
County and Santa Cruz, 2,000 heritage turkeys have been sold.
California businesses helping save the turkeys by participating
in the project include: Acme Chophouse (www.acmechophouse.com),
Theo's Restaurant (www.theosrestaurant.com),
Chez Panisse (www.chezpanisse.com),
Dean and Deluca (www.deananddeluca.com),
JZ Cool (www.cooleatz.com),
Produce Express (916-446-8918), Angeli Caffe (www.angelicaffe.com),
Berkeley Bowl (www.berkeleybowl.com),
Molly Stone's (www.molliestones.com),
Campanile (www.campanilerestaurant.com)
and Bristol Farms (www.bristolfarms.com).
Slow Food USA plans to organize projects to help save other
Ark products in 2004. Recent boardings include the Elephant
Heart Plum, the Crane Melon, the Marrowfat Bean, the American
Buff Goose, the Pilgrim Goose and 129 varieties of native
American apples from 25 states.
Slow Food USA has 2,500 members and 27 chapters throughout
California. For more information on Slow Food USA or on turkey
farmers throughout the country, please log onto www.slowfoodusa.org
FOR MORE INFORMATION
CONTACT: PATRICK MARTINS
PHONE: (212) 965-5640
EMAIL: pmartins@slowfoodusa.org |
