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The Disappearing
Gravenstein
Effort started to preserve Sebastopol's apple orchards
Friday, August 5, 2005
By TIM TESCONI
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT
Gravensteins are rolling out of Sebastopol orchards right
on cue, but acreage continues to decline, with fewer of the
spicy apples hitting markets this year.
The shrinking acreage is so alarming that one international
food group fears the Gravenstein could become nearly extinct
in Sonoma County. Even with an average Gravenstein crop this
year, there remain fewer roadside apple stands in Sebastopol
as orchards are converted to wine grapes or rural estates.
Slow Food USA, dedicated to preserving artisan foods, has
put Gravensteins on its Arc of Flavor, pegging it for salvation
along with other regional delicacies, such as the Delaware
Bay oyster.
"The Gravenstein is not only a wonderful, flavorful
apple, it has a long illustrious history in Sonoma County.
It's part of our agricultural heritage and must be preserved,"
said Michael Dimock, a Santa Rosa-based agricultural consultant
and leader in Slow Food USA.
During the past six decades, the county's Gravenstein orchards
have declined by almost 7,000 acres, down to 960 acres, according
to county crop reports.
The county's apple industry has been in sharp decline for
30 years. A worldwide glut of apples has pushed prices down,
forcing apple farmers to either sell out for ranchettes or
convert their land to vineyards.
Gravensteins are the first apples of the season to be harvested,
giving them an advantage in the fresh fruit market. But the
Gravenstein is a delicate apple that doesn't ship well and
has a short shelf life, giving an edge to the ubiquitous Red
Delicious from Washington state.
For more than a century, Gravensteins, known as the pride
of Sebastopol, have been part of the town's landscape, economy
and culture. The major road through Sebastopol is named Gravenstein
Highway and there's a Gravenstein School. On Aug. 13 and 14,
Sebastopol celebrates the hometown apple with the Gravenstein
Apple Fair at Ragle Ranch Park.
In October, Dimock said, Slow Food USA will have a fund-raising
event for the Gravenstein. The money will be used to develop
a marketing program and tell the story of the Gravenstein,
the favored apple of plant wizard Luther Burbank.
"The bottom line is to increase the market for Gravensteins
so that Sebastopol's remaining apple growers stay in business
or even expand production," Dimock said.
There are only a handful of growers left who pick and polish
the red-and-green striped Gravenstein for the market. The
surviving ranchers are driven more by the way of life than
financial returns.
On Wednesday, Dave Hale, whose family started farming in
Sebastopol in the 1880s, picked his first Gravensteins of
the season, putting out the "open" sign at his red
barn along Gravenstein Highway North.
Hale sells all of his fresh apples right off the farm or
at farmers markets. That eliminates the middleman, so he can
squeeze more profits from his apples and stay in a farming
business he loves.
"It's survival. I enjoy many aspects of apple ranching,
but the low return isn't one of them," said Hale, preparing
a load of apples for the Marin Farmers Market.
At Hale's apple farm, a 40-pound lug of Gravensteins sells
for $28 and a 10-pound box is $12.50. On Friday, Gravensteins
were 79 cents a pound at Andy's Produce Market in Sebastopol.
Jolly Perkocha of Los Altos was among Hale's first customers,
buying a lug of Gravensteins for her annual baking spree that
includes pies, crisps and tarts. She said she might even make
some applesauce.
"Gravensteins make the best homemade applesauce. It
has a tang to it that no other apple can match," Perkocha
said.
Depending on the location of the orchard, the yield in the
aging Gravenstein orchards is either average or below average
this season. Heavy rains during late spring hit when many
apple trees were in bloom.
"The wet spring didn't do us any good. We're down a
little bit in tonnage this year," Lee Walker said.
Walker and his family produce Gravensteins and two dozen
other varieties on their 100-acre Sebastopol ranch on Upp
Road, off Graton Road.
"Gravensteins have become a speciality item," Walker
said. "People really love their flavor and drive for
miles to get them."
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